Sunday, October 26, 2014

2gig Z-STAT Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat Review

2gig Z-STAT Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
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I like it except for a few key issues, the touch screen is a nice feature and nice looking.

a few issues...

1. Once connected to Z-wave it will not run off the built in schedule on the unit, you must schedule from z-wave.

2. Unit does not report set-point temp to z-wave, ie: if someone changes the temp at the thermostat, the change will not be reflected in Z-wave, it will only know the last setting that was initiated through Z-wave. This seems to be a known, designed by choice, issue.

3. After about a week of seemingly working fine, it began to lose contact with the Z-wave network, and commands would not be sent to it. I changed the batteries, removed it and re-added it a few times before it would work normally again, at that point it was not recognized as the same node, so all my scenes in Vera did not refer to it anymore so I had to redo all the scenes.

4. From reading the forums it seems reliability can be spotty due to running off batteries rather than 24V power, of course, the fact that this unit can run on batteries is one of its main selling points in the first place. What I will say about running power to this thing, or the "C" wire or "Common" as it's referred to is that the C wire is no more than a ground back at the source of the thermostat wire. This is rarely mentioned in the all the posting about C wires and transformers, etc. but from what I have learned, that is essentially all it is. I do not have a C wire but I do have a common back at the Taco SR502 that my boiler and hot water tank are hooked to so all I have to do is pull a 3rd wire to my T-stat and connect to the terminal labeled "COM" in the SR502 and it should work, but if it didn't have that I should be able to just run a wire to the metal cabinet of the boiler, furnace, or wherever the T-stat wire originates from.

5. I would prefer there to be a plate that mounts to the wall where you wire to and then the unit snaps into the plate. The LuxPro this replaced was like that, and is also "armchair programable" as they say. Also, the battery and wiring access covers are tricky to remove and there is no instruction on how to do so.

6. Not knowing that the built in schedule would be useless, I went ahead and programmed the whole thing, this was a tedious process which did not seem to function exactly as the manual says, especially the "Copy" function which did not seem to work at all.

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I am testing a variety of z-wave devices in my home prior to deciding which to be used at our new office building. I have now evaluated the Trane Remote Energy Management Thermostat (by Schlage), Honeywell TH8320ZW1007/U Z-Wave Enabled Programmable Thermostat, and this 2Gig Z-STAT Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat. In my home, there is a 24 V common (blue) wire but it was not connected. Fortunately, I was easily able to connect that wire. The Trane and Honeywell require a 24V common wire as a previous reviewer noted, while the 2Gig uses 3 AA batteries. I also was worried that the backlight would not look so good on the 2Gig, but it actually looks better than the others IMO.

The Trane and 2Gig both work fine with my Vera 2 controller, but I had trouble with the Honeywell, as it turns on the air and heat at same time. I think the 24V common needs to connect to the air conditioner/compressor instead of the furnace, which might be a problem for me.

Bottom line, Trane and 2Gig work fine with my Vera 2 system. I like the looks of 2Gig better, it is cheaper, and does not require a 24V common. The new office will get 2Gig thermostats.

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Bought this to integrate with my ADT Pulse system. Set it up as a GE Thermostat and it worked just like a charm. I have an older heating system, so there is no power to the thermostat. The battery powered version was perfect. This guy works just fine-minus a bit of lag, but I suppose that's to be expected. Wouldn't be surprised if it's actually my network slowing down communication. FYI-the lag is probably 3-5 seconds from when I input a change from the ADT iPhone app. Perhaps that's just relative...

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I bought this tstat a few days before Christmas , and installed it over the holidays. At first I had some difficulty working the set up and I was leary of the reviews that showed this device to be a battery hog. To install this unit without the C wire was no problem, it comes with decals that you can mark the wires with when its apart. I got this installed and proceded to program it as outlined in the directions that it came with. After not much luck and almost ready to give up, I realized that there was a smaller insert of instructions that came with the Z wave radio module on this t stat. After carefully reading this I realized that this t stat is very versatile. It can be used as a stand alone programmable t stat that works off the internal clock on it, it can also be fitted for 2 types of radios, the Z wave and the wifi radio.

After reading the extra insert instructions, I then realized that the t stat needed to be placed in wireless mode which hides the clock and some other displays on the face of unit. This was done by holding down the program button for 12 seconds, and then linking the z wave controller to the t stat. Once that was done I went to z wave controller, did a network heal, and proceeded to program in scenes. I am happy to report that all works as intended now and that a month into usage the batteries are still holding at 90%. The t stat can be operated in total darkness if needed, just lightly touch the screen and it lights up really bright and stays on for about 3 to 4 seconds after. I also tested the notifications feature and it works flawlessly. This unit is highly recommended and it looks like there have been some improvements over the first models prior to this one.

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This was super easy to install. It quickly synced to my Vera2 and was instantly controllable. It has a big screen that is easy to read and control.

For me, I needed ones that run on batteries as I do not have a 24V Common wire coming from my boiler to power it. This was it. I have three installed, two on radiant heat floors and one on forced hot air from a heat exchanger (from the boiler).

Will save me LOADS of $$ on propane.

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