Tuesday, December 23, 2014

La Pavoni PPG-16 Professional 16-Cup Espresso Machine, Brass Review

La Pavoni PPG-16 Professional 16-Cup Espresso Machine, Brass
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
List Price: $1,499.00
Sale Price: $1,491.25
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I have owned this machine (8-cup, chrome) for over ten years and everyday when I make my morning cappuccino I love it more. You can spend more for a machine that measures the coffee, tamps it, pulls the water through and steams the milk for you, but you can tip the kids behind the counter at Starbucks and they'll do the same thing. Making espresso should be a little art and a little science and this machine an impeccable balance of the two. If you aren't the kind of person who takes joy in mixing the perfect martini, making a risotto that whispers with flavor, or whipping a meringue to impossibly tall peaks, this probably isn't the machine for you.

The La Pavoni is for the person who will find tremendous joy in going to the lengths required to make a perfect cappuccino by hand everyday. (And don't bother using anything less than Illy Cafe coffee in it.)

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I owned one of these for three years, and agree with the only other reviewer that this item is only for those who take joy in fiddling with the many variables of grind, pull speed, preheating, and coffee bean choice. If you don't want to put in all the extra effort to coax performance from a beautiful piece of Italian engineering, save your money and buy something automated.

That said, I thought a potential buyer might want to read about some of these idiosyncracies. First, no matter what you do, the first shot you pull will taste bad. Preheat, pull hot water for the first shot--nothing will change the fact that the first shot doesn't taste good. I resigned myself to wasting that first shot.

Second, if you want to pull shots soon after each other, you'll find out that this unit does not have a pressure release mechanism. So when you unseat the filter holder soon after pulling the shot, there's still pressure against the grounds, which will now *poof* blow back outward onto your fingers and the machine. You'll get used to knowing when it's been "long enough", and in a pinch you can *carefully* ease the holder out, slowly letting the pressure to escape.

With a pump espresso maker, you can pull "lungo" or "ristretto" shots, which have (respectively) larger or smaller shot sizes. Since the amount of grounds stays the same, this means more watery or stronger. But with this unit you have to live with the pull size implicit in the amount of water moved by that piston for a pull. They give you two holders, which gives you two sizes. The smaller one is the only one I ever used, which was a ristretto--a good choice, if you have to take a single choice!

Unlike most espresso machines for the home market, you have steam available all the time on that side steam wand--you don't need to switch it into "steam mode". The steam wand is a little dated in design, but I got very good results out of it. They supply you with some gimmicky steam/frothing attachments which you should ignore.

For a party, you'll run out of water sooner than you expect. The reservoir is heated up to steam and is thus under pressure. You do NOT open it until it has cooled down enough to release all the steam. So unlike those pump units, this one is really not for making a lot of shots in a row.

Let me finish by saying that although most of what I've said about this machine are its misfeatures, it is a really, really likable unit! The previous reviewer was SO right in comparing it to making a martini. I'd add that it's even more like fiddling with your stereo and speakers until you finally get it sounding *right*. With the manual pull lever you'll get a feel for what the correct grind feels like. You'll know what the right pull speed is--your muscles will start to remember it. And out will come that lovely espresso with its golden crema--what a way to start the morning!

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The only problem I had was the wood on the boiler cap was cracking. This is not a common problem that they had. I sent the damaged cap back and they replaced it with a new one. The coffee grind is the trick to making this espresso machine work properly.

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La Pavoni PPG-16 Professional 16-Cup Espresso Machine, Brass

I purchased the 16 cups La Pavoni professional (brass model) and have been extremely happy with it's quality in pulling espresso shots, foaming milk, and overall quality in craftsmanship. It is definitely a purchase for the next 20+ years.

HOWEVER, when I first received it I went through a lot of frustration (probably 50+ cups wasted) to finally understand what it took to make perfection in a cup.

Before considering this machine, understand that you will require a grinder that has the ability to adjust the fineness/coarseness of coffee bean grinds. Purchasing coffee grinds from cafes will not work. I figured they would have commercial grade grinders so what's the difference? Well, the difference is that this La Pavoni needs an EXACT grind level, and I mean exact! If the grinds are too coarse, water will pass through the grinds quickly and you will not achieve the sought after crema (plus the espresso will taste like burnt toast). If the grinds are too 'fine', you will not be able to pull the La Pavoni lever down to release the pressure build up (i.e. the coffee will not pour/drip) and you'll be forced to remove the filter prematurely....and poof! scalding grinds exploding everywhere. I chose to pair my La Pavoni machine with a Mazzer Mini grinder ($750) which is also a well made machine made in italy. There might be a cheaper solution, but after so much frustration I experienced with pre-ground coffee from cafes I would have done almost anything to get it right. Just to give you an idea on the amount of frustration, at one point I even contemplated scraping this whole 'manual' art form and getting an automated machine. Those were some painful days let me tell you..

So know I have a top of the line espresso machine and top of the line espresso grinder, this should automatically bring perfection right? Wrong. You will also require a tamper (which presses the fresh grinds down into the filter). A plastic tamper is provided with the La Pavoni which can be useless unless you're accustomed to knowing your own strength. It is said that the appropriate amount of weight to apply when tamping down the grinds is 30lbs. And again, if this step is not done properly it will affect the outcome of the shot: press too hard, the grinds will become paste; too light, you'll end up making coffee instead of espresso. A 51mm tamper that has a 'click' mechanism to indicate 30lbs has been applied costs around $90 (the brand I purchased was espro).

To recap:

La Pavoni Professional = $1400

Burr Grinder = $750

30lbs Tamper = $90

Total Investment = $2240+tax

.....perfection isn't anywhere close yet by the way, but the tools are all there. There's lots of research to be done on your part, but this La Pavoni machine can produce some of the finest grade espresso drinks I've had the pleasure of critiquing. Like I mentioned earlier, at the time I hated the experience of spending so much money and time and still failing on an epic scale. It takes practice upon practice, and 3 months later I'm still learning. I can, without a doubt, pull a great espresso shot with excellent crema full of flavour. Now-a-days I have to resist the urge to make one and am constantly annoying my wife with offers of another cup.

Prior to the La Pavoni, I had a decent Breville machine that was automatic. One button, it made a consistent shot and I raved about it. Now, I can't even enjoy a cup from the Breville because the difference in flavour is so obvious.

My advice to those who want something effortless that doesn't take 10mins from your morning routine, I'm sure you can purchase a quality automatic machine for

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