Eco-heater 602 High-Efficiency Electric Panel Whole-Room Heater Reviews

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $119.95
Sale Price: $114.95
Today's Bonus: 4% Off

It was love at first sight, A great looking heater, producing oodles of heat even in upstate New York, and using 1/3 of the wattage of my baseboard heaters what's not to love? I picked up six of them and mounted them on various walls around the house.

The honeymoon ended after 18 months. The heater in my bedroom started singing a tuneful but dolorous melody whenever it turned on. A few weeks of that and it sang no more. Curious, I removed it from its wall mounting and discovered large, deep cracks on the surface of its backside. Even more curious, I started removing some of the other heaters. Though only three had scary cracks, all showed some signs of cracking. It did not seem to matter whether they had been mounted on interior or exterior walls. They cracked. I wish the manufacturer had gone to Corning for the ceramic!

Fire hazard, I said to myself.

Divorce was inevitable.

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As we try to turn back the temps at night, so we dont heat a 2,000 sq ft house, while we sleep under the covers...I have 2 kids which dont always stay under the covers!

So I used the typical space heaters for a while, ugly as the are, and at 750 or 1500 watts, they kept the room temps up just fine.

Along comes this wall unit, at 400 watts. It attaches to the wall, can be painted to match the room, plugs into any outlet, and one can heat a small room by itself.

While I do not recommend these for primary heating, because they take too long to warm up, I HIGHLY recommend them for seconardy zone heating for bedrooms.

Connecting two of more per room, and you probably could use them for primary heating and *could* take the place of base board heaters. But 2 or 3 panels would take up a lot of space and not look good, thus I do not recommend replacing baseboard heaters with these panels.

These are on simple switches out of the box, there is no thermostat. I have found the Lux WIN100 Smart Temp Fully Programmable Thermostat to be the ultimate solution. Set the times you want the heater on and off, set the temps you want, plug it in, then plug in the heater...and your done for the season.

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My house is heated by a propane fireplace. With the cost of propane rising dramatically, I bought three of these heaters last year and used them all winter. I heated my full 1200 square foot living area with those three heaters at an approximate cost of $1 per day. I can't recommend these highly enough. And if you have children or pets, they are very safe--they do get hot, but not hot enough to burn you. Plus, they are totally quiet.

I have recommended these heaters to friends and neighbors.

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In a word...Hooray. Low energy consumption (400 watts), no tipping over, easy to install, nice toasty heat, this heater has many benefits. My home is heated by a centrally located fireplace (so I'm already a fan of radiant heat) and I use this heater to keep a bedroom warm. Installed this about 1 week ago and so far so good. As promised on the packaging, it really does only take 10 minutes to install.

The only downside is that the panel itself does get reasonably hot, it's true that it's safe enough that you can touch it and not get burnt, but you won't want too do that. I was going to install in a kids room, but had second thoughts after giving it a test run. Also it would have been great for the manufacturer to include information re: direct wire installation or use of a thermostat. ..but these are really minor points compared to having a great heat source that is safely out of the way, mounted to the wall, and efficient.

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I bought this heater to install in the nursery so the baby's room would stay warmer overnight while the rest of the house went down to 60 degrees. The house has attic insulation, but no wall insulation, and there are storm windows.

The good about the heater: It is unobtrusive. We have it installed on an interior wall out of the way. It is easy to install; it took about 10 minutes. It keeps the baby's room warmer than the rest of the house. I also like the fact that it uses less power than a standard heater. Not only is it cheaper to run, I have fewer concerns about overloading circuits. I like the fact that it has a paintable surface, although I haven't decided if I am going to paint it. I have heard that painting radiators reduces their efficiency and I don't know if that applies to this heater.

The less than good: We have had this heater on in a rather small room (10 by 10) with a hot water radiator system, and over night it only seems to bring the temperature about 5 degrees above the temperature in the rest of the house. Based on other reviews of this heater and others, I ordered the plug in thermostat. I think I will return it because I won't ever need to turn off the heat because it is too hot. Also, the passive heating means that it takes a while for the heater to have any impact on the temperature of the room. I turn it on at 6 pm so that the room will be comfortable when the central heat goes down to 60 degrees at 10 pm. My final concern is that the heater says it can be mounted at any height, but that it works best closest to the ground -6 to 18 inches above the baseboard. I was hoping to install it higher so my baby wouldn't accidentally burn himself on it. Since heat rises, I should have realized this flaw in my logic.

I don't think this is a bad product, it just isn't as good as I wanted it to be for $150.

Discount Deni 9700 Electric 5-Quart Pressure Cooker

Customer Ratings:

After less than two years this unit broke down. Repeated heating and cooling caused the plastic pressure valve to break and I can't find a replacement so I have downgraded my review from 3 to 2 stars. The following represents an earlier opinion:

"After over five years of service my Farberware electric pressure cooker finaly broke down. The electrical conection to the heating unit (cooking pot) was not well reinforced and (as the cast aluminum pot was heavy) it finally broke.

The Deni fixes this problem with a completely different design with no stress being put on electrical connections lifting the pot out of the unit.

However, I still prefer the Farberware unit and would choose it over the Deni. When using the cooker in pressure cook mode the seal does not always operate correctly. This can cause the food to cook indefinitely without ever reaching pressure. The timer does not shut the unit down after the food has been cooked but turns it to warm. Food can continue to slowly cook for hours. This is aggravated by a timer beep that is hard to hear.

Further, the unit was advertised as stainless steel but it appears to me that the cook pot is aluminum. This is something of a concern as teflon linings wear out and there is a reported link between aluminum and Alzheimers.

I've used a pressure cooker for many years and swear by them. This unit is satisfactory but I wish for the cost they'd put just a little more thought into the design."

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I purchased the Deni appliance and LOVED it. Then it broke after a few months of use. I would set the timer to say 40 min and skip off to take care of other things and when I would return to check on it, the timer still said 40 minutes! A couple of times I didn't release the pressure in time to prevent the food from thoroughly burning. SO I sent it back at a cost of $20 in postage. Six weeks later, Deni sent a replacement. THIS ONE NEVER WORKED!!! The replacement had a defective electronic keypad that makes no noise when you push the buttons and doesn't count down or shut off. The food will burn every time unless I set my oven timer and check on my own to see its progress. For as much as I paid, I'm not willing to do that. The second one is going back too.

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I love this pot ! I cook a lot of Ethnic dishes, where this pot comes in handy in pre-cooking many meats, 'rooty' veggies, legumes etc. I also use it as a 'regular' pot with another lid, simply because it is big and not extremely heavy to handle. It is electric, saving me a stove burner when I have to cook several things at the same time. Generally, I am very satisfied with the DENI products I own.

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The electric pressure cooker is the way to go. Having had the non electric for many years, I find that the electric model is pretty much hands off once you set it to cook.

It counts down and shuts off on it's own. I like the quick release valve too.

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This is a perfect item for reducing cooking time for most foods, especially brown rice!

Best Kalorik CC-20575 700-Watt Combination Grill and Sandwich/Waffle Deals

Customer Ratings:

Pros: Nice variety of grills, Compact Storage, Temperature Control

Cons: Difficult to Clean, NOT dishwasher safe, Limited Capacity

Best Uses: Snacks, Quick Meals

Beautiful design, temperature controls, one of the very few indoor grills that makes real sandwiches instead of paninis, but it's way too small for much else! Place two sandwiches side by side -that's exactly the size of the grilling surface! As if that weren't bad enough, the grills aren't dishwasher safe! So close and yet not even in the ballpark.

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I wanted an appliance that could make waffles and grilled sandwiches this seemed to fit the bill. However, the sandwich plates were too small even for regular grill cheese sandwiches. The button used to open the appliance got stuck on occassion eventually (after 4 months of weekend use) the clasp broke, making the appliance unusable.

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I thought this would be great for its versatility and liked its sleek design but I am quite disappointed. It cooks waffles incredibly slowly even with the temperature dial set to the highest setting. I have used other waffle makers before and this one takes easily 2-3 times as long to cook the waffle. It is not great for grilling sandwiches as it does not have a floating hinge so can only grill the thinnest of sandwiches ...or you have to squish your sandwich into a pancake. I would not recommend it.

Best Dimplex CUH05B31T 3750/5000-Watt Compact Industrial Unit Heater Deals

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $290.00
Sale Price: $265.00
Today's Bonus: 9% Off

This unit does a great job heating my workshop. The bracket allows me to mount it to my ceiling so it doesn't take up any additional space. It is much quieter than the last heater I had. It's alot of power for the price. I would recommend it.

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I bought this to heat a mostly insulated 3-car garage workshop. This unit would struggle to heat this much space in a severe climate but our winters here in the Pacific Northwest are fairly mild. My garage is quite comfortable to work in after an hour or so when outside temperatures are in the 35 to 40 degree range. The unit is thermostatically controlled so you just need to let the space get to the temperature you want and turn the dial on the back down until the heater turns off. From there it will turn itself on and off as needed. It is a bit on the loud side, but isn't nearly so loud as the power tools I'm using. I suspect this would be quite expensive to run if you used it to heat a garage all winter, but it's fine if all you want to do is heat it a day or two a week. The upside is that this has made my garage workshop useable year round and I don't have to wait until spring to begin work on projects.

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We used this item in our Kidding barn for our goats....it needs to be 45-50 degrees in the barn when the kids are born and the heater kept the 18 X 40 ft barn toasty during February in South Dakota.

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Heater was installed using 208V about 4 weeks ago in a large electrical room. I have the built in thermostat set to 4 and the Dimplex heater keeps the upper part of the 14' high cielings very warm, the lowerpart of the room is cool but comfortable. I might install a cieling fan to push the warm air down.

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I installed two of these in a 20 x 30 ft industrial space. On a cold day in Boston, 20 F., the room gets to 65 F after about an hour. If I had enough power coming to the room, I'd add a third just to have the BTUs to heat the room quickly, but in general two seems to be enough. The room is comfortable and as spring draws closer and thing warm up a bit, these two babies will be just fine.

Very easy to install. One of the heaters clanged when it ran. I had to open it up and bend one of the fan blades -hence the 4 stars.

This heater is part of Dimplex's commercial heaters line. Dimplex also makes a similar unit under its Industrial line -the EUHxxxx. It's about twice the price with fancier heater element and the thermostat in the front rather than the rear. Same BTU output. I have no idea what the practical difference between the two is.

I recommend this unit.

Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller. Great for Sous vide Reviews

Customer Ratings:

The manual can be found at http [colon slash slash] [slash] JLD612_Manual.pdf

Given that I found the manual I had no trouble connecting the 25A SSR Solid State Relay DC:Input AC:Output for PID Temperature Controller and I even used the Heatsink Heat Sink for 25A Solid State Relay (SSR) which is tapped for metric screws, available at ace. I am using the K thermocouple and I had to use the programming adjustment to square the built in display with my Taylor 9842 Commercial Waterproof Digital Thermometer which I decided to trust more than my other digital thermometer.

I inserted the PID/SSR into the black wire of an outlet strip, so that the switch on the outlet strip and the SSR can both turn off the heating elements. I stripped the white wire without cutting it and wire nutted a pigtail on which I hooked to terminal 2, then I cut the black wire and on the hot side I put on two pigtails, one to terminal 1 of the pid, the other to one side of the SSR's AC side. Then I wire nutted a pigtail on the side of the black wire closest to the outlet strip, and attached that pigtail to the other side of the SSR. I even made pigtail color match the hot/neutral black wire/white wire. I didn't touch the green wire at all, if the wall socket is grounded the outlet strip is grounded.

I used yellow/blue to attach the low voltage SSR control circuit, I read somewhere that those are colors used for things that are polarized DC when there is AC around too. Probably just junk, but I didn't want to use any of the regular 110 volt colors like black, white, green, and red (alternate hot I think).

I was sort of surprised that anyone had trouble with the SSR hookup, there are labels on two sides of the device that describe all of the outputs, the SSR output is clearly labeled, if you just attach + to + and to it works. The default setting is for SSR output and according to the manual, for the P100 thermistor, although mine came programmed for a K (maybe because I bought a K at the same time).

There was no wiring diagram in the manual, but they note that there is no polarity for 1 and 2, that there is no resistor unless you have a P100 in which case the resistor is in the thermistor, that the internal relay can take 3 amps at 220 volts. Again, just match plus on the thermocouple to plus on the PID and ditto for minus. If you just want this device to be a temperature excursion device (like to warn if a fridge gets too warm or too cold) you set outp to zero and control the alarms with ah1, al1, ah2, al2. In that case, SSR pins are not used at all, the alarms are controlled by relays J1 (normally open OR normally closed) or J2 (normally open only).

If your heating element for sous vide is small enough that you can use the internal relay you get only one alarm controlled with ah1/al1 and the alarm is reflected on J1. J2 is set with the SV front panel temp. For that mode, you set outp to 1.

Setting outp to 2, the default, gives you two alarms, ah1/al1 controls J1 which has normally open and normally closed settings, and J2 controlled by ah2/al2. SV controls the SSR outputs.

I am not sure I have any use for the alarms at all.

To access the basic settings, set, then set the "pass" to 0089, then set again.

To access the PID parameter setting mode, set, pass 0036, set again. But those parameters are set by using auto-tune.

To access the temperature mode to set target temps for the alarms and the sv setting, set, pass 0001, set.

One thing I like about this device is that it is self programming. I didn't know how to set pid parameters and really didn't want to learn, but you push right arrow until AT lights, and it takes the PID through a couple of learning cycles to learn how much and how quickly the device heats and cools and then it sets the PID parameters for that combination of device and heater. The overshoot is a couple degrees during learning. Takes about 20-30 minutes but that is dependent on overshoot and cooldown rate, and you would probably need to do this for any new combination of container and/or heating element. If you are using an immersion heater to heat water in a cooler, say, it should be way different than if you use a rice cooker's internal heater. Once the PID parameters are set it comes up to temp without overshooting. I would not want to listen to a mechanical relay with this, it flashes power very often, although I see that can be controlled at the expense of some stability.

I doubt it could hold temp within a degree without the learning cycle. I am cooking eggs for the morning (I guess that is the first thing almost everyone sous vides and after some web searching, we decided on 142 for however long but at least four hours.) I just checked it and it was at 141, trying to gently push back to 142. After about a minute of gently increasing the pulsing proportions, it managed to get it up to 142 without overshooting.

My plan is to use a small rice cooker for anything that fits into it, and something larger (bus pan and corner attachment with dangling immersion heaters, or a big stock pot with dangling immersion heaters) and I would probably want to write down the parameters for the rice cooker before switching to the stock pot. The immersion heaters are probably a bad idea, I should just get a bucket heater but the cool thing is that the scheme of putting the outlet strip on the pid allows me to plug in whatever I want, so I can switch between heating devices easily. But I could read the parameters from the pid and write them down. That would allow me to put those parameters back into the PID so that I would not have to allow the PID to go through another learning cycle. The procedure is in the manual.

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I purchased this controller to use for a sous vide water water oven along with 11-1/2" Water Heater. Instructions are lacking. After much headache trying to set up an external relay, I found it much easier to use the internal relay on the controller, even though it's only rated for 3 amps. I am very pleased with its accuracy (using a PT100 thermocouple it reads to 0.1 degree F or C accuracy) and the stability of its auto-tune feature (it's able to hold within 0.5 degrees F for at least 3 hours). If the instructions weren't so vague it would have been perfect . I'd definitely recommend this to anyone wanting to DIY a sous vide controller, but experience with electronics is a must!

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It is a great PID but it would be good if you send the manual and wiring diagram with the product.

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Perhaps I'm the only one that did not know this, but the red wire/spade connector on the pt-100 probe does NOT go to the terminal on the controller marked + (terminal #9). Red is not positive in this case!

The red wire on the probe goes to terminal #8 (resistor).

The other two wires go to terminals #9 and #10.

Took me several tries to figure this out. Perhaps this will save someone a little time troubleshooting the EEEEE error message the controller displays when the red wire is not connected to terminal #8.

So far the controller seems to work just fine. I'll try to update this review when I have used the Sous vide cooker I'm building for a few months.

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I purchased a JDL612 controller, Thermocouple and SSR to try my hand a Sous Vide cooking. I set up a prototype system, Programmed it to the manual (and lots of links on the internet), connected it to a water bath in my Slow Cooker, set it for 130 degree F (SV) and put it into Learn Mode. It heated up through 160 F (PV) and was still climbing. I took it offline and double checked all my program and electrical connections, everything was correct. I tried it again (With cold water) and the same thing happened. This time I noticed that the OUT light on the front of the controller was OFF but the lamp on the SSR was still ON. I tried several other programming and Set Value changes to the same result. The lamp (OUT) would respond properly but the SSR stayed ON. There was 8.1 VDC coming from the controller at ALL times. Should have been 0 or close to 0 when the OUT light was OFF.

I set the perimeter (outY=0) which should have disabled the SSR output, and it was still staying ON.

I have requested a replacement from Lightobject.com through Amazon but haven't heard anything back from them yet (approx 2 days now). I think the unit is defective but with all the good reviews I'm willing to give them a second chance.

I'll keep you updated.

2/2/2013 I received a replacement controller and the new unit corrected the SSR Stuck on problem. The replacement unit is now capable of controlling the Temperature to the Set Value. I still need to work on the PID perameters a little ( The SV=100 and the PV=99 ) after Auto Tuning.

I upgraded the rating to 4.5* from 1*.

Review of Koldfront AP12000S-KF Extreme Cool 12,000 BTU Portable Air

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $599.00
Sale Price: $399.00
Today's Bonus: 33% Off

I'm on my 3rd season with this unit.

1. Its way more powerful than my GE portable. Keeps the LR cool when the GE would not.

2. This unit, though powerful, is very poorly made.

Example:

All four wheels broke off the first season (my season is June-Aug)

The unit emits a "burnt tire" smell. finally stopped smelling in the 3rd season. Friends are no longer asking, "what's that smell?"

The digital lights went out at the start of the 2nd season, so no warranty to fix.

The directional blades fell off the machine during the second season. Can not be repaired.

The exhaust hose lasted only one season, then fell apart, even though properly stored ($29 + s/h for replacement)

To all those who see nothing but good ratings at the Compact Appl site: They refuse to post any of the real negative stuff. They fix the comment section to reflect only good reviews of 4 stars and more. Not too ethical, no?

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Do not buy this item or any item from this company. The product was broken right out of the box. If you buy something them and it works, you're lucky. If it does not, good luck getting any kind of customer service for repair.

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I purchased this air conditioner from another site. We've had it for one day and it is going back. The first problem is the stupid window kit. It is thin and flimsy. The other problem is that the window kit does not fit flush in the window. There is about a half-inch difference between the extension and the window. Plan on using some duct tape to close the gap. The next problem was the first day it arrived it was 80 degrees but the lowest the unit would cool the room down to was about 74 degrees even though it was programmed for 65 degrees. Our old unit was only 6,000 BTU's and it kept our room really cool for 5 summers so I do not believe this unit is really 12,000 BTU's. I left the unit on overnight because the exhaust opening on the window plate is little more than the kind of plastic grates you see on milk crates. They supply a plastic cover but it takes a bit of force to twist it off. As I mentioned earlier, the window kit plate isn't the sturdiest so I was worried if I used too much force it might fall out the window. The final straw came the next day when the unit shut off because we had to drain out the water. This is crazy how often would it need to drain on 90 degree days? I am so happy I purchased this unit early enough to return it before it gets too hot. BUYER BEWARE THIS PRODUCT IS JUNK!

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Compact Appliance sent me a piece of junk (Portable air conditioner EdgeStar model # AP1200S). It kept tripping the breaker and the one time when it did run for 3 hours it never cooled the room. Compact Appliance told me to contact EdgeStar then EdgeStar said to contact Compact Appliance. It is very frustrating to deal with these two Companies. No one wants their piece of junk portable air conditioner back.

The return policy with Compact Appliance is horrible Compact Appliance makes you pay for shipping back to them no matter what. There is no satisfaction guaranteed even though they say there is on their website.

The manufacture warranty through Edge Star is also horrible. They make you pay for shipping on the extremely heavy portable air conditioner to an EdgeStar authorized repair facility (wherever that isas it does not say on the warranty).

I find it hard to believe that there are so many great reviews on this air conditioner on the Compact Appliance website. The Amazon reviews are not as good.

It is very frustrating when you are looking forward to getting cool air after you paid a lot of money to Compact Appliance and took time carrying it up the stairs and unpacking and installing it and still not having cool air. Then having Compact Appliance and EdgeStar blame each other and you is even crazier. It has been a very upsetting two weeks. It is not worth buying from them.

I am happy to report that I purchased a Sharp portable air conditioner at Costco and it is working beautifully. If for some reason it stops working (even 5 years down the road) I can take it back to Costco and get me money back instantly. Costco is a company that does guarantee satisfaction unlike Compact Appliance.

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live in the Northeast, not a big air conditioning area, few weeks in the summer. first thought the room was to big (15 x 25) but for curiosity sake placed in a 8 x10 bath...never moved the thermostat after running for three hours. Spent $271 at S ears for a 12000 btu window unit works like a pro. Expensive lesson in air conditioning. Best advice...buy a window unit

Belkin WeMo Home Automation Switch for Apple iPhone, iPad, and iPod Reviews

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $49.99
Sale Price: $49.88
Today's Bonus: $0.11 Off

Update: 8/26/13: Thanks for all the positive comments.

... Mac Address (update): I did want to note I purchased a couple more of these from Amazon, and they still have the wrong MAC address (see below). I know for a while Belkin had a page up that showed some have the right one and some have the wrong one, and how to tell which is which. I can no longer find the page on their site, so I assumed it was fixed. It's not.

... IFTT (update): You can now access more than one device from the website.

... Extended WiFi network (update): If you extend your WiFi network by using multiple WiFi devices setup with the same NetworkID and password (if you do this, you'll know who you are). Belkin has fixed the problem that you can't properly access your devices externally.

... Device Firmware Update: Belkin has fixed alot of things with their most recent firmware update. From easier updates, cleaner UI for setting up events, properly saving WiFi information, and perhaps most importantly, the devices are rarely hanging. That said, they still do hang and need to be manually reset. It is nice to see Belkin continues to support the product actively.

... to all who appreciated the review, thanks for the kind words. ;)

Update: 12/16/12: There have been several firmware updates since the product first came out. The device seems to hang less often now than when I noted below... on the order of once every 2 to 3 weeks.

Original review:

I should note, I have several IP Power Switch boxes. I use them for things like controlling my network, network devices and stereo devices. These work off of wired ethernet, and have many plugs on the back that are addressable. I note this only to make clear I already understand some of the shortcomings of these types of devices.

OK, that said, these are really nice for the right application.

Power Throughput

First, since I searched high and low for this information (on Belkin's site everywhere) and could not find it... the device packaging indicates that it can handle 15A throughput. Amazon should really add that to the product description, since I consider it pretty important.

Setup (MAC address printed on the back is wrong)

There is a trick in the setup and it ended up wasting about an hour of time. That is, the MAC address written on the back of the device is off by one. I'm guessing that is because it probably has 2 wi-fi network cards in it. I'll note that in a second. But, if you have your wireless network setup to filter by MAC address, the address printed on the back is off by one... so add one to it for the wireless network you will need to "filter" (and for those not technical, remember it is HEX, so one more than 9 is A, and one more than F is like adding 10). you can use a hex calculator on the internet if that isn't enough. I won't bore you with how I figured this out... and they may change it at some later date, but that is the current situation.

Setup (Aside from the wrong MAC address)

It is (in my opinion) really nice. I think they have 2 wi-fi adapters in the device, because you first setup your iPhone (or other iOS device) to connect to the switch. I was assuming once you connected through the iOS app and entered your network information, you would loose connection and just have to assume everything worked, as it switched the single wi-fi adapter's settings and connected to your wifi network. But, conveniently, it stayed connected to my iPhone, helping diagnose the problem... thus I figured there were 2 wifi adapters. I think this is a really nice touch and will really help. Kind of nullified by putting the wrong adapter's MAC address on the back of the device but, we all make mistakes. The setup otherwise went smooth.

WAN Setup

Effortless I did nothing. No router settings, technical people will understand the weakness of this approach, but for everyone else, it is mindless... just worked.

IFTT (If This Then That)

Is a website not associated with Belkin other than that it supports their device. You should note, it only supports a single device currently. So, you can't get too complicated, but it does note it will support more than one at some time in the future. I really like this function. There is a fair amount of capability when a sensor is triggered (if you have the sensor device), or a switch was turned on/off. You can tell the IFTT website to do something, like send you and email notifying you of such. And conceivably significantly more at some point in the future.

How it Works

There is a nice iOS device that reports the state of the device (currently on or off, or in the case of the motion sensor sensing motion or not sensing motion). In the case of the power switch, you can change it's state from the iOS device or by pressing the "override" button on the device itself." In the case of the motion sensor, you can tell it what to do when motion is sensed... like power on a switch. It should be noted, the sensor and the power switch are two separate devices. The power switch that comes in the motion sensor pack, is the same power switch you can buy individually, and neither the sensor or the power switch are tied to each other specifically. That is to say, the motion sensor can control any belkin switch. It has a lot of potential.

How it Doesn't Work

It seems to have the same weaknesses that any wireless network device has... loosing connection after long periods. This may well be fixed in a firmware updated, but for me, right now, the power devices seem to crash after being plugged in for a couple of days. I had it on a nite light in our hall (just to test reliability). I setup a schedule to turn the light on at dusk and off at sunrise. Pretty simple, and something you'd want to work before heavily investing in them. It works for 2 or 3 days, then "hangs." Doesn't show up in the iOS app, and won't respond to the button on the device. After pressing the button, it would "reconnect" to the network after a minute or two, and be fine for another couple days. This didn't just happen once. Also note it is located in an area where the network has solid strength (current version Apple Time Capsule). Also, my wireless network is not setup directly to a cable modem... I have a router between, so the wireless network stays up 24x7, though the WAN may end up cycling itself. So, when it crashes, it saves it state on or off... just stops responding. That's really the problem, because you "really" want it to cycle itself if it can't reach a network. I should note, the motion sensor doesn't seem to hang, but I have to honestly say, it isn't as obvious a situation to test. But every time I tested it, no matter uptime, it was active and responded correctly. There is also a problem when you have multiple WiFi routers in used to extend your wireless network (and you want to access your devices externally). If this is your case, you should read their forums on the lack of a work-around.

So, I wouldn't use this for something mission critical... or said another way, something you need to work.

Weaknesses

It is big, I can't use the other plug in a typical 2 or 4 outlet setup when it is plugged in. There are work arounds, but you get the point. The reliability. I can't see using this for much home automation.

Strengths

It is ALOT cheaper than other similar products, and it has a lot of potential to do things because of the "programming" type if/then abilities it has. For example, my more expensive IP Switches have a function to "IF" it cannot reach a website (either immediately or after a certain number of time or tries), "THEN" cycle a power outlet... or many power outlets, or the device itself. This is a lifesaver for any technical person. I have it setup to watch google's DNS servers (8.8.8.8). If it can't reach that site for at least 5 minutes, then recycle the cable modem. If after 5 recycles of the cable modem, I have it recycle the cable modem and the network router (and switches). So, my network fixes itself. The belkin could do this with a little more smarts for only $50! That would be a virtual must have for anyone technical. I also think if they would add in wall light switches to the "system" I think you could get a lot further along. Perhaps multiple outlet devices, etc.

You can feel the potential.

Summary

If you have a non-critical device or system that you want to control: this is your device. If you want to put a sensor by your front and back door, and get an email when it triggers, then turn on a couple of lights (say in 2 minutes, then turn off in 5)... then this is your device. Just know, for now at least, it could hang and not do what you expect.

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drops wifi way too often, and needs re-setting up each time so this really is not reliable or useful for essental security lighting or something that has to be shut off or on remotely, a little expensive, great idea if it actually worked, perhaps they will come out with one that works reliably, we had both sensor and just switch but both lost connection every 3 hours to 2 days or so, belkin service and tech support no help, returned without problems at the apple store, bad belkin, good apple store

Best Deals on Belkin WeMo Home Automation Switch for Apple iPhone, iPad, and iPod

I'm glad I only bought one of these to try out, I would be happier if I had bought none. I wanted to use it to shut off power to an irrigation system on my ranch (200 miles away from home) when my wifi camera indicates that my cistern is running dry. The problem is that anytime the WEMO drops the Internet connection it turns itself off. It would make much more sense for it just to maintain its current state (off or on) until the connection is restored or make it an option for the user to select the behavior. This thing drops the connection with maddening frequency even when plugged in just several feet from the router. The other issue is that at least half of the time the software can't find the switch (compared to my wifi camera which is always available). When it does work it functions as advertised so I am sure it is all installed correctly. The problem is that it is totally unreliable. I would not recommend it to a friend (or enemy, just too cruel). Very dissatisfied.

Honest reviews on Belkin WeMo Home Automation Switch for Apple iPhone, iPad, and iPod

A great idea, horribly implemented. The switch drops off my Wi-Fi network 2 or 3 times a week. When this happens, you must repeat the setup process and it stops functioning until you do. Belkin tech support had no good answer, other than to change my Wi-Fi router. The other half-dozen devices in my home have no problem with my network, so I'm confident it's the piece of junk WeMo, not my router.

Think about it. The whole idea of this switch is so that you can control it when you're away from home. But if it consistently drops offline, what is it good for? That's right. Absolutely nothing. Save your money.

-Update April 25, 2013 --

After many (too many to count) firmware updates, the WeMo switch is finally reliable for me. It's a shame that Belkin stained their reputation by releasing such a poor product, but I give them credit for eventually fixing it.

Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Belkin WeMo Home Automation Switch for Apple iPhone, iPad, and iPod

Configuration of this device requires switching your phone/tablet to a different wifi network, then switching back, manually, twice. The WeMo app (v1.1.2) can't seem to do this by itself; your instructions are to use the iOS Settings app to do it, then go back into the WeMo app. I wonder if this is because of Apple's app sandboxing rules, but whatever: this is not a product I could ever give to my family or friends and have them set it up.

If you are connecting to an Airport Extreme Base Station, make sure the "allow network to be extended" checkbox is ticked on your router. Note that this must be done with Airport Utility 5.6 on a Mac. Airport Utility 6.0 doesn't have that checkbox, and neither does the iOS version of Airport Utility. On newer AEBS devices I believe this is the default setting, but make sure this is done before you start configuring your WeMo devices.

The WeMo device's configuration wireless network is left on after the device is set up. Even though the device supports WPA2 security, the configuration network is an open network. Doesn't that mean someone else can change my device's set up from outside my house? The configuration network should at least be password-protected, Belkin. The password can be printed on a sticker on the device, as is typically done for self-installable wireless routers. I think you sell a few of those, yes?

But since the device's configuration network is left on, if the main WiFi network goes away (say, due to a router reboot) your phone/tablet will automatically switch to the device's configuration network, which is not connected to the Internet. The phone/tablet must be switched back to your normal WiFi network manually using the Settings app. To prevent this from happening again, use the phone/tablet's Settings app to cause iOS to forget the WeMo device configuration network.

All of these problems would be remedied by a simple design change. Instead of using a pair of WiFi networks, this device should use Bluetooth for initial configuration. No network switching would be needed, as an iOS device can pair with the WeMo while maintaining it's wireless network access. The range of Bluetooth networking would make it nearly impossible for someone else to reconfigure the device. Better yet, a physical switch on the WeMo could disable the configuration network after it is set up.

Other commenters report that they required a phone reset (or deleting and re-installing the app) to get this work. The WeMo app crashed on me multiple times, usually during the same tasks each time. There is no good reason the phone has to be reset, or the app reloaded. Reproducible crashes are completely avoidable. And when did it become OK for companies to ship a product that is unusable until you perform a firmware update?

After over an hour, I never got my WeMo devices working. In fact, I think one was bricked during the firmware update. I'm not going to spend another second on this. This product is clearly not ready for customers, but the dual WiFi hardware design means it can never be fixed to work in a reasonable and secure fashion. My WeMo devices will be returned to Amazon, or junked.

Cadet Manufacturing 67508 120-Volt White Hard Wired Com Pak Fan Reviews

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $161.99
Sale Price: $88.00
Today's Bonus: 46% Off

Installed this heater in a small mudroom I built in our home. Our home has forced hot air and it would not have been easy to get the ductwork into the room for heat so I looked for an alternate heat source and found this nice little heater in my searching. Based on other reviews I read mostly positive reviews and I can only agree with all of them. Fan motor is VERY quiet and the heater heats up super quickly and the blower moves the heat around very nicely. I would recommend this for any small room that needs a heat source or even like a bathroom if you were looking for additional heat to supplement your primary heat source in the cold climates / months (say to take the chill out while taking a shower). Directions were clear pay close attention that THIS product is for a 120V line there is another version for 240V so make sure you are buying the right model. Can be used with an external Thermostat which would allow you to maintain a specific temperature the built in thermostat would have to be manually set using a room thermometer and then you wuold cut back the dial to maintin that temp. Also I do not believe the heater techincally has an 'off' setting the lowest left setting on the dial basically set's the thermostat so cold it doesn't let the heater turn on. A more precise solution would be to install an external thermostat (I found a compatable one for $20 on Amazon) instructions would come with the thermostat to install the thermostat.

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We have these in each room of the house and they save on our heating cost as you only turn on the one in the room you are sitting or sleeping in. Great fast delivery. Ordered wrong wattage and seller was professional at refunding.

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We bought this to replace existing heaters of the same model. The heating elements break often. I recommend choosing a different product.

Honest reviews on Cadet Manufacturing 67508 120-Volt White Hard Wired Com Pak Fan

This heater appears to be well made and is a good wall install design. I didn't rate it the best of the best only because the thermostat does not have an on-off switch for airconditioned summer use, I had to install it with a separate wall mounted switch with an "on" indicator light. I installed this in our motor home bathroom to knock the chill off after a shower. This heater does not have the typical heater fan noise, it makes no sound at all when running.

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Used this heater to replace an older heater that had no fan in one of the bathrooms. It works great. Heats the room up fast and probably more effecient than the old one. Will purchase another for our other bathroom just to upgrade it to a better unit.

White-Rodgers 1F82-261 Programmable Digital Heat Pump Thermostat Review

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $116.13
Sale Price: $50.99
Today's Bonus: 56% Off

My remarks have not so much to do with this thermostat, rather it is mostly about the wonderful services of Plumbing Planet who provided the item. I had used this model thermostat for over 13 years and was very pleased with its performance. Initially, the problem begin with the thermostat switching directly into the auxiliary mode when the compressor cycled in regardless of the outside temperature. Thinking I needed a new thermostat, I searched Amazon and found this model available from Plumbing Planet. I was surprised when it arrived in 3 days instead of the stated 5-7 business days. In fact, it arrived before the stated shipping day.

Actually, I found out (regrettably) that I needed a new HVAC and ended up using a thermostat that more closely matched the new system. I sent the White-Rogers thermostat back to Plumbing Planet and received confirmation that my payment had been credited back to my charge card. I was really impressed with the way this company handled my transaction, and would not hesitate to use their services again. I highly recommend them.

Regarding the White Rogers 1F82-261, this is a good thermostat. The previous one I had used for over thirteen years without a problem until bigger problems happened with the heat pump itself.

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This was an exact replacement for my 12 year old thermostat that died (possibly because of a lightning-induced voltage spike). I works exactly the same. On the whole, a good experience.

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Had this thermostat installed by an HVAC company to go along with my new HVAC system in March 2008. This past weekend I noticed that the thermostat was not following its programmed schedule for either time or temperature for both the morning and late night settings.

When it was supposed to be at 68 degrees per the program, it would run to keep the temp at 72 degrees, and started warming up to that temperature 2 hours before the time set, and then maintained that temperature 2 hours past the late night time it was supposed to go back down to 68.