Showing posts with label thermostatic radiator valves. Show all posts
Showing posts with label thermostatic radiator valves. Show all posts

Monday, January 5, 2015

Farm Innovators Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlet Reviews

Farm Innovators TC-3 Cold Weather Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - On at 35-Degrees/Off at 45-Degrees
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
List Price: $14.99
Sale Price: $12.97
Today's Bonus: 13% Off
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I've used this ThermoCube for a few years to protect some vulnerable water pipes in an otherwise unheated shed.

There are several cosmetically-identical versions. The TC-3 model (on this page) is designed to turn on at 35F and off at 45F, which is pretty critical information that should be in the product description. It's rated 15amps and 1800 watts according to , which sells these for over each.

I've been using this device to switch a radiant oil heater. The new ones will control 250-watt brooder heat lamps. If you're worried about pipes freezing, it's cheap enough and simple enough to be worth a try.

It gets 4 stars because the temp sensor is not accurate (on at 38F) and there's no indicator lamp confirming the device is getting power from the outlet.

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Look closely to make sure you get the one with the operating characteristics that you need.

TC-1 On at 0 F, Off approx. 10 F

TC-2 On at 20 F, Off approx. 30 F

TC-3 On at 35 F, Off approx. 45 F

TC-21 On at 78 F, Off approx. 70 F

TC-22 On at 120 F, Off approx. 100 F

You can select the one you want from the "Size Name:" pull down.

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Seems to work as stated, but if you have a use for this in an outside recepticle as I did,(heated water bowel and a bird bath heater), then reconsider!! All my outside outlets have a metal weather cap an the top and this cube is too large and hits the weather cap, so it does not plug all the way into the outlet. Bigtime unsafe seeing the prongs exposed!! Cost half as much as what I paid for the thing to send it back so I found a very short, but HD outside extension cord and plugged that in to the recepticle and the cube into that. Then put it in a waterproof bag sealing it up. Better than letting the prongs hanging out. Someone really dropped the ball when they designed this for "outside" use! They should have designed this body slimmer on the top.

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I am using this to control the on/off of power to my home built rain collector heater for my Davis weather station during snow storms.

6153 Wireless Vantage Pro2 with 24-Hour Fan Aspirated Radiation Shield

My unit turns on at around 36 degrees F and off at 41F. It worked great all through last winter without any problems.

I plugged a nightlight into the second outlet so that I could tell when the Thermo-Cube has switched on and when it had switched off.

I agree that it could be marketed better. None of the automative or hardware stores in my area even knew what I was taking about when I inquired about such a device.

THANK GOD for AMAZON.COM!

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I looked for years for something like this to help protect my frost-sensitive plants! I have been using it with C9 Christmas lights and a cover (sheet, blanket or pool cover) on my plants and haven't lost one plant since. It has saved me a lot of money since I don't have to put the lights on a timer all night long like I used to. It's really worth buying!

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Sunday, October 12, 2014

Discount Hunter 44668 Comfort Saver 7 Day Room Control Thermostat

Hunter 44668 Comfort Saver 7 Day Room Control Thermostat
Customer Ratings: 3 stars
List Price: $103.99
Sale Price: $98.50
Today's Bonus: 5% Off
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I have nothing but problems with the 44668 thermostat. I had the first one for less than a month and it started resetting itself. Hunter replaced it with a second one which after a few weeks lost communication with the remote sensor (had to reset unit), left the blower running in the house (had to reset unit), and finally stopped controling the system with an error 004. (Hunter Customer service didn't know what error 004 even meant).

Refusing to refund my money, Hunter is now sending me a third one. I politely told them that if I had problems with that one, I would escalate my problem within Hunter to demand my money back.

By the way, I ordered this through Amazon and CPO who is a Hunter distributor and I would like to point out their ridiculous '30 day money back guarantee' copy and pasted it says:

"All unused items can be returned within 30 days of shipment for a refund or exchange (unless otherwise noted at the time of sale). Items must be returned in their original packaging. If an item was shipped free of charge you will be billed for the cost of the original shipping."

Note the word 'unused'. How do you see if you like a thermostate, much less if it works properly, without using it? Statements like this discourage people from buying through the internet. I would have bought this at local retail but I couldn't find this particular model. If I had, it would be back to the store and I would have my money back.

I usually don't write reviews like this, but so far my experience with Hunter has been less than stellar.

I'll see if the third one works (which by the way takes almost two weeks for them to send).

TJ

9/15/09

Well, this saga started last May and I still can't get one of these thermostats to be reliable. I have tried three of them now and as of yesterday Hunter Customer Service is refusing to refund my money. I could write a book over what has occurred between now and last May when this started, but suffice to say that the people at Hunter Customer service in Memphis Tn are pretty useless and will say anything to try and make you go away. I could name names, but I won't. My last conversation was with one of the supervisors.

This morning I filed a formal complaint with the Tennessee Department of Consumer Affairs to see if they can mediate a solution for this. Its unfortunate that a company like Hunter who generally has such a good name for quality is being ruined by a bunch of incompetent people at their customer service center.

TJ

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I just bought two of these for only $69.95 each at my local Sam's Club. My problem with my regular thermostats is that they're located in the hallway/living area which are in the middle of my 2 story home. At night, the bedrooms (on the sides of my home) become either colder in the winter or hotter in the summer than the middle of the house so the thermostats don't control the bedroom temperature well. With this thermostat, I can program it to control the heater/AC by using the wireless remote sensors I keep in the bedrooms, making the bedroom temps just right. The thermostat also has it's own temperature sensor built in. During the day, we are mainly in the hallways/living areas so I have the thermostat use it's own temperature to regulate the living area temperature. Also, another awesome feature is this thermostat doesn't need someone to turn on the heater during the winter or the AC in the summer. You set it to turn the heater on if it's below a certain temp, say 72 and turn the AC on if it's too hot, like say 78. So your house will always stay between 72 and 78! It doesn't matter if you suddenly have a cold or hot spell in the spring time, the thermostat will accurately provide hands-free control of the heater/AC.

It also tells you to change the air filter after 500 total hours of heater + AC time.

The only reason I didn't give it 5 stars is I had 1 defective remote sensor. My thermostat wouldn't pick up the defective remote sensor temperature. After debugging it for 1 hr, I called tech support and after 3 minute of talking with tech support, they agreed with me that it was defective and I had to exchange for a new one. I didn't have any thermostat program resetting problem like the other reviewer.

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Ok, here is the deal. I love the remote temperature sensor. It really compensates for only having one unit in a two-story house. However, for some reason the main unit arbitrarily resets its self or changes settings. I spent over an hour setting up a custom program and within a couple of weeks the unit reset and went back to factory defaults. I repeated the process only to have the same reset problem days later. I now have it set at 70 and leave it alone.

I am still happy with the second sensor but feel like the programmability option is a waste. I have called customer service but hung up before getting to a real person. I will be calling them again when I have more time to waste.

Honest reviews on Hunter 44668 Comfort Saver 7 Day Room Control Thermostat

I'll give you the summary first, because my review became quite long: After one day with this unit, I will say that it's a great thermostat. Programming it is fairly intuitive. If you need remote sensors because of lousy thermostat positioning or because you want to set up multiple heat zones in your house, this is the thermostat for you. My complaints are with the documentation, which is quite poor.

The full review: I received and installed my Hunter 44668 last night, and everything has gone smoothly so far. I'm pretty impressed. I would give this product a 5-star review, but the user's manual knocks it down to 4-stars overall. If I was rating it on the user's manual alone, I would only give that 2 stars. I can definitely understand why other people have complained.

There are inconsistencies and omissions in the manual that should never have made it to the publisher. It's like the manual was written by a college intern and never proof-read. Sometimes the button you're supposed to press is shown in-line with the text of a particular step. Sometimes the button is shown in a column to the left of the instruction steps. Sometimes the buttons pictured in the left column don't line up with the steps in which they're supposed to be pressed. Sometimes the button picture is missing entirely, and the button you're supposed to press has to be inferred from the section title! It's a complete disaster.

I was lucky because I had read through the entire manual TWICE before I tried to program the thermostat--I read it once online before I bought it because I wanted to see what people's reviews were talking about, and then again a couple days later after it arrived, before I tried to program it. By the time I got around to pushing buttons, I had come to terms with some of the inconsistencies in the manual, and was prepared to compensate for them during programming. The process went pretty much flawlessly, and I actually got the unit installed and running in record time (for me).

I figure there are probably 3 types of people installing this unit... 1) people with lots of previous experience installing setback thermostats who will only bother to look at the manual as a last resort if the unit does something unexpected, 2) people who take the time to study the manual and work through its shortcomings, and 3) people who are going to depend on the manual to be correct because they're reading it for the first time and following it step-by-step as they try to install it and program it. The first group will be fine, because the actual setup is pretty intuitive if you've installed these things before. The second group will be fine, as I've demonstrated myself. But if you're in the third group, this thermostat is likely to frustrate you massively, and I would actually recommend avoiding it based on that.

So what do I like about this thermostat? I like the remote temperature sensors! I have a counterflow furnace in my house, which means the heat registers are in the floors and the cold air return is in the ceiling. Some wise guy mounted the thermostat in the hallway directly under the cold air return. There is literally a wall of cold air exactly where the thermostat is mounted, and at that location no thermometer is capable of determining with any accuracy the actual temperature of the house. As soon as the furnace shuts off, the attic cools the cold air return duct, and cold air starts falling out of the ceiling right onto the thermostat. When the furnace runs, it can raise the temperature of the rest of the house 6-8 degrees. But with that wall of cold air in the hallway, the thermostat won't budge a single degree! I needed to get the thermometer out of the hallway. However, I didn't want to yank the wire up out of the wall and fish it down in another wall somewhere else to move the thermostat. The remote sensor included with the 44668 is exactly the solution I need.

If you're buying this thermostat specifically to use the remote sensor, then one thing you need to realize up front is that the remote sensor comes pre-configured as an outdoor thermometer and NOT as an indoor thermostat. Step one, while you're working through the Options prior to programming, is to reconfigure the base unit to correctly recognize the sensor as an indoor sensor. Once I got that straight, the programming went smoothly.

Next, the omissions. One cool feature of this thermostat is that for any given program setpoint, it can read a single sensor or an average of multiple sensors. This isn't fully explained anywhere in the manual, it gets only the briefest of mention. You control the feature with the "sensor" button, and at any point while programming the unit, you can press the sensor button to walk through all the options for that setpoint. The options are: the built-in sensor (BI), remote sensor 1 (R1), remote sensor 2 (R2), BI+R1, BI+R2, R1+R2, and BI+R1+R2. Very nice, but not in the manual. And there doesn't seem to be any guard against choosing sensors that don't exist. For instance, all the R2 options were available on mine, even though I don't have an R2 running.

Another omission in the manual is the jumper wire supplied in the baggie with the screws and wall anchors. OK, it's red-colored. That's as much info as you get (assuming you're not color blind), because it's presence is not mentioned anywhere in the section about wiring the unit. In the back of the manual, where the wiring diagrams are shown (why are the wiring diagrams separate from the wiring instructions?), the jumper is shown wired between the RH and R1/RC pins in FIVE of the six wiring methods pictured, even including the 2-wire heat-only setup that my house uses! But is it supposed to be there or not? Does the thermostat get damaged if it's not present? I have no idea whatsoever. The instructions didn't say to install it, so I didn't, and my furnace is running. I just have to hope no damage is being done. Unanswered questions.

So, if you've managed to read this far, I'll finish with one subtle point I haven't seen anyone else talk about... The display backlight. This unit has an electroluminescent display backlight (think Timex Indiglo), and it works great. A nice feature. However, the manual says the backlight is *powered* by the 24V power from the furnace. The manual doesn't come right out and say it, but the way I read it, if you have a millivolt control system, you're out of luck. The display backlight won't work for you at all. Something to be aware of.

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This product was just what I wanted. At night we only wanted to heat the bedroom with a small space heater and let the rest of the house stay cool. We programmed the unit to regulate via the remote sensor during sleeping hours and now the furnace keeps the rest of the house cool while our room stays toasty with the small monitor heater. Before it was a balancing act to keep the room regulated, then the furnace would kick on and the room would get way too warm.

Many people have claimed the unit is very hard to program. It is virtually the same as other programmable thermostats I have used. The most important part is to write down what you want the program to do before you start programming. Then take it 1 day at a time.

The only confusion I had was setting up the remote sensor. At first I could not select the symbol for "T1" (the auxillary sensor) for my nighttime program hours. The unit came pre-programmed as if the extra sensor was to read outside temperature. You cannot program the furnace based on outside temperature or it would run constantly! I had to go to the options menu and change the sensor settings. I changed the outdoor temp sensor channel to -(meaning no outdoor sensor) and that the external "T1" sensor was channel 15 (the channel on the display of my auxilary sensor). If you have 2 or 3 extra sensors, then you have to set each temperature to the corresponding channel on the various sensors. After I set the sensor up correctly, it allowed me to select "T1" for my nighttime program.

Again, decide what you want to do before diving into the programming. What worked best for me was using the "everyday" programming mode to set up all of the days the same. Then I went back through each day and made small adjustments based on our schedules.

It works like a charm and at this price, there is no other comparison to it. Even a standard 5-2 programmable thermostat will cost more! Kudos to MarkDownAlley for good pricing and fast delivery!

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Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Cheap Hansgrohe 04231000 S Thermostatic Trim With Volume Control

Hansgrohe 04231000 S Thermostatic Trim With Volume Control And Diverter, Chrome
Customer Ratings: 4.5 stars
List Price: $475.00
Sale Price: $246.23
Today's Bonus: 48% Off
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Useful stuff first: You will also need to buy a Hansgrohe iBox

Make sure you (or your installer) read the installation guide thoroughly before installing. My installer didn't and I had to go back and "fix" it, I'll explain later.

This shower control is very well made... most things are heavy gauge metal but operates smoothly. I agree that cheaping out on the cover plate with plastic is poor form. Mine has a small scratch already within 1 week. But the look of this is just plain awesome, very modern and shiny chrome baby!

Why spend extra money for thermostatic? Well, you or your kids won't get burned, that's why... I bought this for our kids' bath and love it.

The top dial goes left (10 o'clock position) or right (2 o'clock position) for tub / shower. Mine is left for tub and right for shower. But I think you can change it depending on the way your iBox connects to shower / tub. The bottom dial controls the temperature. Counterclock-wise for cold water, clock-wise for hot water. There is a small button on the left side of dial where you can push and turn the dial to hotter temperature beyond "thermostatic" setting.

My problem: My installer didn't pay attention to the temperature setting... Even at the hottest setting, we were only getting warm water at best. I opened up the bottom dial and adjusted it according to installation manual and then it worked like a charm. To adjust it, read the installation instructions or follow my less technical directions below:

1. Turn the bottom dial so that the hand points down at 6 o'clock position.

2. On the right side of the dial, there's a small access hole for an allen wrench. Turn the allen wrench counterclock-wise to loosen the dial. If your installer put a little rubber stopper in there, just push it in all the way and you can retrieve it later when the dial is off.

3. Once opened, there's a gold knob looking dial (it's the thing that sticks out). Find it.

4. Turn the top dial to tub or shower so you get water.

5. Turn the gold knob clock-wise or counterclock-wise to adjust the water temperature. The instruction says 100 degrees, I believe. I just turned it to the maximum temperature that I think my kids should shower at.

6. Turn the top dial to 12 o'clock to shut off the water.

7. Put back the bottom dial (pointing at 6 o'clock) via allen wrench.

8. Test it to make sure that it works.

The 6 o'clock position should be the hottest that you want the water to be... then push the little button the left and turn the bottom dial to 4 o'clock position, this should make the water even hotter... My wife showers at the 4 o'clock position but I think normal people will probably burn at this temperature, so I sent it at 6 o'clock for my kids.

Overall, I think this is a great product... well made with German engineering... but if they had included a metal coverplate (or will ship me one for free), I'll change it to 5 stars.

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Escutcheon (chrome cover plate) is made of PLASTIC!!! Yes, I said PLASTIC! For the hefty price tag, it should be made of real chrome-plated metal. Shame on Hansgrohe. I was under the impression they made top-notch stuff. For whatever reason they decided to skimp on this item.

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along with the iBox this thing seems to work great. The only problem i had was the need to have a friction ring shipped to me that is installed on the temperature control stem, along with the chrome base to the temp handle. What happens is the weight of the temp handle can be so great that it wants to return to the vertical position, so if you want a bit of cold the handle will slowly sayno you want hot, friction ring solved this 100%, customer service was extremely helpful solving this problem. 10/10 would buy again

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Goes very will with all of our other Hansgrohe products. Love the fact that you can set the bottom dial to the temperature and then the small dial at the top turns on the shower, so once you have the temperature you like you don't have to mess with it you can just turn it on and the water is perfect

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This is a beautiful product. The whole assemble is beautifully engineered. However it works opposite what you would expect for hot to cold But we are now use to it and love the temperature controls and no we did not reverse the input lines as we called the company to confirm

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Friday, March 28, 2014

Cheap GE WB44X200 Bake Element for GE, Hotpoint, and RCA Wall Ovens

GE WB44X200 Bake Element for GE, Hotpoint, and RCA Wall Ovens
Customer Ratings: 5 stars
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Our oven element in the very old GE P7 oven broke and our local appliance shop no longer does repairs. I located this replacement part after doing some research and the price was much less than from other sources and it was easily replaced in about 5 minutes with only a screwdriver and turning off the power. It works perfectly.

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I was a little apprehensive buying a replacement heating element and installing it myself, but it turned out to be quick and easy! I saved at least $100 doing this project myself! I am a middle-aged female who is somewhat handy, and this was an easy project for me.

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Got this to fix a broken element in a hotpoint oven. Works great, but barely fit since it ended up being longer than my previous one. Make sure you measure your old element and don't go off the shape.

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When our heating element went out on our GE oven I thought we were done for -until I found this replacement! It was easy to install and worked perfectly. We do need to remodel our entire kitchen but that won't happen for a while and I don't want to start buying appliances piecemeal. This was a life saver!

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If I'd known that replacing this element would make the oven perform better I would have replaced it years ago. The last several years my wife would set the oven temperature higher than the recipe's temperature because the actual temperature was always about 25 degrees lower. One day my wife was roasting some meat and could not get it to temperature at all it had finally failed.

The new element has been in use a few months now and glows brightly and evenly and my wife says the oven gets to temperature quicker. I am just glad we did not have to replace the wall oven (General Electric model J KP62GOK3 BG; Nov. 1988) as it has a matching microwave above it. I was looking at a total replacement cost of about $2,000 and have not been real happy with the reliability of new appliances.

Replacement was straightforward and took 5-10 minutes. I did test the old element with a multi-meter before purchasing the new one. A few YouTube queries gave me the instruction I needed (e.g., "Replacing an Oven Coil (Bake Element)" and "Bake and Broil Element Testing").

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Friday, February 14, 2014

Review of Cyclone Automatic Register Booster Fan Steel White CBW

Cyclone Automatic Register Booster Fan Steel White CBW
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
List Price: $59.99
Sale Price: $39.99
Today's Bonus: 33% Off
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Using this in a bedroom where the vent doesn't have enough airflow.

Quiet not silent and provides enough boost to help cool the room

You will have to play with the thermostat to get the setting correct for turning on and off also will have to reset it when going from air conditioning to heat (and back again).

Overall nice look.

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Thursday, January 30, 2014

Ceramic thermostat 145 degree, used in many coffeemakers. Reviews

Ceramic thermostat 145 degree, used in many coffeemakers.
Customer Ratings: 3.5 stars
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I tried two other thermostats (temp too low) before I got this one to replace the failed one in a Zojirushi EC-DAC50 Zutto 5-Cup Drip Coffeemaker. I had never measured the temperature of the coffee before the original thermostat failed; this seems to hold it at about 200F which is maybe a little too hot (but it's only 160F at the top of the carafe).

This thermostat has a plain flat back, not the cut-out for the spring clip that the others had and which the Zo uses. So I had to play some games with pliers to reshape the clip and electrical tape to make sure it didn't short where the quick-connect tabs connect in. But that's more to do with the coffeemaker than this thermostat.

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Although the thermostat got my Farberware percolator working again, it never reached the 145 degree setting because the coffee pot never shut off. I had to unplug it. Coffee was extremely hot, so I would have thought it had reached its temperature.

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this thermostat put the coffee maker back in action until another day and another problem.

i did have to use jb weld to glue it to the high temperature heat pipe but that went without a problem.

glad i did it.

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Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Review of Mr. Heater MRHF273400 Buddy Portable LP Gas Heater

Mr. Heater MRHF273400 Buddy Portable LP Gas Heater
Customer Ratings: 4 stars
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This heater is excellent and the perfect fit, for a certain set of requirements.

If you have electricity, use an electric heater. Don't bother with the hassel of propane. The cost isn't too different and the hassel factor is much higher than electricity.

I also don't recommend using the small canisters. That's an inconvinient way to go as well.

BUT. If you don't have power and need a cheap, safe heat source that you can run while you sleep, this is the best one made. Buy the 12' hose, place a 20lb propane tank outside, and run this heater all night with just a small crack in a window or door (just in case!). You will get > 100 hours of heat out of a tank of propane! Less than a buck to run it all night.

Highly recommended under the right circumstances.

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I use this heater when I camp in my trailer, and it works great especially when used in conjunction with a 20-lb. propane tank. If you do use a 20-lb. tank, however, I STRONGLY recommend that you use the fuel filter (around $10 and yes, this is mentioned in the manual) and also that you always close the propane tank shut-off before turning off the Portable Buddy so that all the gas is burned out. Why? I went through two units that started shutting themselves off about a year after purchase before I found out that oily residue starts building up within the heater when the previous two suggestions are not followed. Even when I tried cleaning it out (I did a complete disassembly), it was not successful unless the control unit and the regulator are replaced as well. I did find a lot of oily mess within contol unit area, but couldn't get it all so it's just as easy to replace the entire unit. What happens is that when you turn on the unit, it seems to work; but, as the oily residue works its way up to the flame part, it will start going out on its own the time it takes to go out in my experience was around 1/2 hour. As far as the precautions go, the fuel filter was easy for me to find locally where propane items are sold (farm stores, large sporting goods stores); it is easy to install (it screws into the heater where a 1-lb. bottle would be located and then the hose to the tank screws right into the fuel filter it should last a year). I pick up an extra one once the current one is being used. I'm getting in the habit of shutting off the gas first. I would give this heater 5 stars if they would have explained this malfunction better I ended up talking with tech support before finding out what was actually wrong.

Also, even in very cold weather, I leave about 6" of window open to keep the condensation to a minimum.

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Once and for all, here is the purpose of fuel filter for this heater. When you use this heater with a remote tank & rubber hose, it is imperative that you always shut the tank off first & let the heater run until it burns off all the fuel in the lines. YOU MUST DO THIS EVERY TIME. If you simply turn the heater knob to the off position, what you are doing is trapping 100 PSI of propane in the rubber hose. When high pressure propane just sits in your rubber hose, it literally causes the rubber to leetch a light oil that is part of the chemical composition of the rubber. If this oil forms and you have the filter on the heater, the filter will catch it and seperate it from the gas. If you do not have the filter, the oil will quickly work its way into the heater & destroy both the regulator & control valve. The heater can be repaired, but these two components will need to be replaced.

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This heater is perfect for tent camping in larger tents. It's not too big and pretty stable. We have a large cabin style tent that sleeps 6-8. On our last camping trip to our local Southern California mountains in January 02, the temp at night got down to the mid 30's. Mr. Heater kept us almost too warm, even on the low setting. Our kids ended up sleeping on top of their sleeping bags. The safety features and BTU range were the deciding factors in our purchase. The low oxygen sensor gave us peace of mind(I still purchased a battery operated Carbon Monoxide sensor for the tent for extra precaution)and the BTU range was good. I could not find any other indoor approved heater that warmed us so well. At first I purchased a infer-red heater that attached to a bulk talk. I found too many reasons why not to use it in the tent(No low O2 sensor, no heat shield, and no low setting). Don't chance it. Get an 8 to 12 foot extension hose and a bulk tank. The portable tanks won't last all night. I wouldn't recommend this heater for small tents(not enough space, not enough air volume, and the potential for Carbon Monoxide problems is too great).

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After several months of field testing this heater, I found it capable of producing some convenient heat. It competes in a market that includes a lot of products. I have used this heater in a garage, basement and while camping.

Some observations:

1. Outside at your campsite, it is easy to light and carry around, and can be a great radiant heater to warm your hands and face on a cold morning without the fuss of building a fire. Inside a five to six person tent, it warmed the space quite nicely on the high setting. In a tent, I would not take a chance to burn it without keeping at least an open space around it and an open eye on it. While the front has a steel grille to shield the user from direct contact with the burning surface, contact with the grille and top of the unit by skin or manmade materials can result in burns or melted items.

2. The heater is PORTABLE, and portability is your friend. It is very easy to pack or carry anywhere. This is a VERY COMPACT unit that will go nearly anywhere. However, It will NOT heat a large unenclosed space, and it is not a blast furnace.

3. One interesting thing that happens when you burn the heater for any length of time in a cool area is that moisture condenses on the outside of the metallic disposable propane cylinder. The condensation eventually turns to frost and if you sit the heater on top of something that can be damaged by water, you definitely want to put an absorbent cloth under the tank to catch any drops of water when it starts to condense or as the frost melts.

4. Since this is an unvented heater, products of combustion such as carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide and some slight odor are released into the heated space; this is common with all such heaters. Adequate oxygen must also be supplied to facilitate burning as well as to sustain life. The low oxygen shutoff is a good safety feature. People with sensitivity to odors or products of combustion would not appreciate this; I have one such person in my household and he has not enjoyed the smell.

5. There is an open flame in the form of the pilot light which sits just in front of the surface of the ceramic plate seen in the picture. The pilot ignites the gas on the surface of the ceramic plate; that is what causes the plate to glow orange. The pilot is lighted by a built-in sparker. I have found the pilot to be harder to light with a propane extension hose attached than with the disposable cylinder on board.

I have used kerosene heaters, catalytic heaters, electric space heaters. All of them produce heat, but this is the handiest heater I have ever used.

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