Discount Honeywell RET97E5D1005/U Wi-Fi Programmable Thermostat

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I had originally bought the Homewerks version of this one for $119. The network set up was no where as easy as this Honeywell. As a matter of fact I never got it to work. So I returned it. The Honeywell is very well thought out. It even has a function setting for hydronic systems. The set up leads you through a series of choices very deductively so the was no time wasted. Oh did I say I bought two? Yes and setup from beginning to end was about 1.5 hours. Be prepared though, you must have a ,VERY small screwdriver to hook up the wires. This was frustrating. I finally went out and bought an eyeglass repair kit because it has a screwdriver the right size. We'll at the moment they are both working. I'm monitoring 150 miles away! Love it.

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General Electric 8,000-BTU Energy Star Window Air Conditioner Review

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ive only had this thing for 4 days now and im already noticing some technical issues with it. first off the thermostat reads weird temps. it will say its 76 when i have it set to cool to 75, then when i bump it down to 72 for the night so i can sleep, the thermostat pretty rapidly shoots up from 76 to 80 degrees, not sure why it does that. i know its not 76 degrees in here when i come in to go to bed.. tonight i came in and turned it down to 72 and it was reading that its 73 in the room, wont kick on so i bump it down to 70 and it turns on, thermostat shoots up to 80 degrees then the a/c stopped running. i turned it off for a couple minutes and it seems to be doing fine now but all this up and down and wrong temp readings are kind of bothersome. i seem to be the only person thats reviewed this thing anywhere that has this problem with it. but when it works, it works great and as long as it cools and cycles on and off the temp reading isnt that big of an issue, but cycling off when i have it set to 70 and the temp is reading 80, thats a little weird. hopefully it redeems itself and stops acting so strange otherwise its going to have to go back.

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Review of Thermostat, Attic Fan

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I needed to replace a switch that looked like the one in the photo that controls my attic fan. The one I recieved is a much more modern looking switch. It works exactly as described and the install was as easy as disconnecting the old switch (turning off the power at the fuse panel of course) and wirng in the new one. The wires on the old and new switches are exactly the same.

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Discount T-fal FR1014002 Easy Pro Enamel Stainless Steel 2.6-Pound/3-Liter

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List Price: $89.99
Sale Price: $44.99
Today's Bonus: 50% Off

that is identical to the above model, minus the enamel:

I worked in restaurants as a kid and I know a great deal about fryers and correct frying temperatures. When I set my unit to its max, indicated to be 374 degrees F, I found that my fries were not coming out as nicely as when I used an old frying pan and thermometer. I then immersed my thermometer in this unit, once the indicator light showed it was at temp, and found that the oil was actually at 340 degrees F. The extra thirty-four degrees can make all of the difference between greasy fries and light, crispy outside, fluffy inside, fries.

This unit doesn't give you the option to calibrate the thermostat system using a grease thermometer. Professional units do have that feature.

Until you can get optimum frying temps, you will not get optimum quality deep-fat fried foods. It really is that simple: Frying at lower temps does not flash finish the outside of foods quickly enough for the grease to be kept from penetrating the interior of what you're frying. The end result gives you fries that are sorta/kinda done, outside, and sorta/kinda greasy inside. Not good. Stand by for an update-----

UPDATE: 8/9/13: I did tweak this unit, and I got 375 degree temps and delicious fried food. I'm enjoying perfectly fried onion rings as I type this. The problem is, I can't tell you how I did the tweak as it gets into overriding fail safes on the unit. That could get you into big trouble. By association, I could open myself up to liability issues, and that's not going to happen.

All in all, I cannot recommend this unit. If you're simply wanting a unit that will do a professional job of deep frying food, at the correct temperature, you will need to look for another unit.

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This is a good fryer, easy to operate and easy to clean. The only problem I found is that the cover is a little awkward to remove when the fryer is hot as the basket has an area around the handle

that slips into the cover and kind of sticks there. Other than that, it is a good item. Makes great fries.

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lots of oil :( but it's cooked veggies well for me!!! It's easy to assemble and most parts are washable.

Honest reviews on T-fal FR1014002 Easy Pro Enamel Stainless Steel 2.6-Pound/3-Liter

I'm afraid that I must echo what other customers have complained about. I think we deserve more for the money in this case. The temperature table on the side of the ready button is inadequate and hard to view. There should be a timer. I had to go purchase a kitchen timer that I've never had to use before for any appliance. The user manuel is glaringly deficient and does not even describe how to filter the oil for this model. There are no starter recipes for this deep fryer and that would have helped sort out the lack of other directions. This model was initially a high enough price prior to the sale price that one would certainly expect more and I found the T-fal customer service to be totally lacking in a personal response. I think that 3 stars is a generous rating for this T-fal product and the company it represents.

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Good product. It heats easily, cooks very well and is easy to clean up after you use it. I recommend it

Discount Elitech 110V All-Purpose Temperature Controller+ Sensor 2 Relay

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Celsius-only digital thermostat. Works great, price right.

I'm using it to turn a lightbulb on and off inside a warming box that keeps the box at a constant temperature, but for that it's perfect.

Has two 10-amp 120 volt capacity relays: one for heating, one for cooling.

The heating relay turns on (closes the circuit) when the supplied sensor reads 0.5C below the target temp. This setting is adjustable. The relay stays closed until the target temp is reached.

The cooling relay turns on (closes) when the desired upper temp is reached, to turn on a refrigeration compressor. To protect the compressor, there is an adjustable compressor delay value.

Four programmable values:

1. Target temperature (default: 10C/50F; adjustable from -50C to 99.9C) (-58F to 211.82F)

2. Difference (how far the temp falls or rises until the relay closes) (.5C is default); adjustable between .3C and 10C

3. Compressor delay time (1-10 min; 3 min default)

4. Temp calibration value

The box is small fits in your palm. It's designed to be panel mounted. Fits in a 71 mm x 29 mm opening. The orange things ratchet from behind to snug the box against the panel opening. They can be removed if desired.

I posted a picture of the instruction/spec sheet, but it may not be readable. Too bad we can't post PDF.

Relays are mechanical nonelectronic and audibly click when activated. No idea how many cycles they can take.

The sensor is at the end of a 2-meter 2-wire cable. The sensor itself is about 1/4" in diameter and about 3/4" inch long.

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Stop crying people, the item description says that it reads in Celsius. Why in the world would you buy a product that's description says it reads only in Celsius, then rate it low and complain that it doesn't work for Fahrenheit? If you can't convert with the app for smartphones and learn to work with Celsius, then don't buy this item. Go find the Fahrenheit version and pay a few bucks extra for it, don't buy the Celsius version and whine.

That said, it works just great. I need to keep my tanks heated to about 72°F, so I set the unit for 22°C and off we go. It comes on when I have it set for and shuts down when it hits temp. It works just great, running two heating elements off the heating relay. I don't have anything hooked up to the cooling side since I don't need that side of it. For the price you can't beat this anywhere even if you only need one side of it, and considering that it runs two relays, one for heating and one for cooling, it's amazing at this price. Well worth learning to use an app on my phone or making up a chart for temps you need converted.

I wish I could rate it about 20 stars to make up for the people that rate it low because it does what the item description says it does, Celsius only. Why anyone would buy and item that says in it's description that it only reads Celsius and then complain that it won't switch to Fahrenheit I can't figure out, especially when there is a version of this item that reads °F and cost just a few bucks more.

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I usually write reviews for things I feel I should share information about. this is one of them.

Electronic equipment like this should cost AT LEAST 5x more. I've purchased similar electronics for my research work that do far simpler tasks, yet cost hundreds of dollars. this little guy is just as good in quality and costs far less.

Background: i use this to control a mini fridge to effectively create a fermentation chamber for my homebrew wort/beer. You can use it for nearly anything that needs temperature control. Ive even heard of people creating heating chambers using a lightbulb that turns on and off. that is the beauty of this switch, is the flexibility and simplicity of use. I call it a switch because essentially that's all it does. It reads a temperature and switches the circuit on and off depending on your set parameters.

I read a lot on forums about wiring diagrams etc. because i was afraid i would wire it wrong. actually it's REALLY easy to wire, you only need the wiring diagram that came with it. Most people who use the STC-1000 on forums have it wired in a FAR more complicated manner than necessary, which, IMO is excessively complicated. If you want to use this as a temperature controller for a fridge like I did, you only need a couple of extra things: extra medium duty extension cord (3 prong), elecrical tape or shrink tube, and/or wire nuts and/or crimp connectors. The extension cord is TECHNICALLY optional because you could cut the fridge cord and wire it inline but you really should leave that cord intact and use a separate one incase you need to rewire later. You don't want to mess with the appliance wire anyway, and you get extra wire that helps you to hook the STC-1000 up properly. trust me, just spend the extra few bucks a get an extension cord from home depot. Also, Ideally you should use a soldering iron to get a good connection, but wire nuts or crimps work just as well. I prefer soldering my connections but your preference is fine. Just don't try to twist and electrical tape it your you're just asking for a fire.

Next, to wire it up, you only need to be concerned with two color wires, the black (hot) and white (neutral). If you cut the spare cord, to minimize the soldering or crimp/wire nut work, be sure to not cut the green (ground) wire. Its ok if you do, but you then need to connect the two lose ends again later anyway, wasting crimps/wire nuts. When you cut the black and white wires, be sure to cut an extra 5-6 inches or so of wire out as leads for the next steps.

No one mentions this, but what I did is actually put 2 wires into each numbered port, therefore minimizing the number of connections. If you do it right, the only crimped connection you'll need is 1 neutral (white) wire. If you cut the green (ground) wire, you'll need 3 connections....

Here's how I did it:

first, put the incoming (outlet/male) side black wire into port 1, then take one loose black wire end and also put that into port 1. Tighten the screw for port 1. Run the other end of the loose black wire that's in port 1 and put it into port 7 (cooling port). Tighten port 7. Take the appliance (female) plug side black wire and put that into port 8 (the other cooling port) and tighten port 8. place the white wire from the outlet/male side into port 2. Take one end of the loose white wire that you cut out of the extension and also put that into port 2. Tighten port 2. Now solder/wire nut/crimp the loose end of the white wire to the female/appliance port side. That's it!

The beauty of this is that it doesn't matter if you reverse ports 1/2 (put black into 2 and white into 1) or use neutral (white wire) in ports 7/8 instead of hot (black wire), which is why it isn't labeled as such. This controller is very flexible and allows many ways of wiring. For me, this way was the simplest which is why I used it. Good luck!

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Received it after a couple weeks or so. Got a radio shack box, cord, outlet and a couple 120v neon (amber) lights to indicate which of the 2 outlets was hot. Google for instructions on homebrew sites, etc.

So, for about $20 in parts (cord was the most!) got a full fledged dual controller for $40 or so. Temp is accurate. Note that the " LCD Digital Thermometer for Refrigerator/Fridge/Freezer by Ufener $2.85" which pops up with this unit might not be accurate. Mine wasn't, it's off by about 2° C (~ 4° F).

[Edit: For Homebrewers, still pleased with the purchase, but may re-purpose it from a fermentation controller. Right now the Raspberry Pi Raspberry Pi Model B Revision 2.0 (512MB)is looking really good. For about $100, it can be made into a smart sensor. Ramping up temperatures on a "set it and walk away" schedule!]

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I was in desperate need to control my fermentation temperatures using a fairly cheap wine cooler whose temperature control was basically worthless. It would either chill or not and I still have to figure out what determines that. Then I came across excellent tutorials on how to use this gadget to build your own temperature controller (search on youtube and homebrewtalk). All you need is a regular wall socket, a box to put everything in, some wires, a power cable, and the STC-1000. In retrospect I'd even add an on/off switch so you don't need to unplug anything.

Anyhow, I installed the STC-1000 to control the wine cooler with the "cold" arm of the circuit (don't know how to describe it better), so whenever the temperature was too high it would turn on the wine cooler. I set the cooler to maximum in the hope it would always feel the need to actually kick on when it gets power. Low and behold it works great! I placed the temperature probe in a small bottle with glass beads that simulate the temperature changes in liquid and allow for a accurate temperature monitoring.

If you're looking for an affordable DIY solution to control fermentation temperature look no further!

Discount Refrigerator Defrost Heater for General Electric

Customer Ratings:

I ordered this to relace a burned out element. The replacement is a double element. Should work better and last longer than original. The price was very cheap compared to what other places were asking. Easy to install and if you are not sure how to go about it, there are how-to videos for just about anything.

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Installed this to replace a 12-year old burned out single-element heater. It was a perfect fit, but nearly immediately the refrigerator and freezer components emitted a putrid burning smell. Over the next week, I validated the heater still worked by checking for the heater glow everything I heard the compressor click off. After a little more than a week, I could no longer stand food and ice tasting of burned plastic, so I removed the heater and found the plastic ends and part of the inside of one of the coils melted.

Today I noticed the smell is gone (with thanks to 4 well-placed boxes of baking soda), but found ice build-up on the back wall, so I assume the defrost heater is toast. I'm ordering a genuine one to replace this one, since my original GE part lasted 12 years and this one, just a little over 12 days.

Too good to be true.

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Installing it was very easy pretty much everything just snaps together... Through amazon I spent less then $20 all together and I had repair man quote me $180 but at least he told me what problem was and even showed me part I needed hee hee

Honest reviews on Refrigerator Defrost Heater for General Electric

Being familar with this replacement already, I received these heaters quickly & package well. I highly recommend this great replacement.

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We ordered this Refrigerator Defrost Heater We recieved it fast did not expect it to shipped so fast My husband installed it the same day our G E Refrigerator side by side Freezer is working like a new one now that we odered this wished we had ordered sooner i had to defrost the freezer with a heater till we ordered this now we hope we get many many more years from this 2003 side by side GE refrigerator Freezer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Review of Lasko 5586 Digital Ceramic Tower Heater

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $86.99
Sale Price: $63.62
Today's Bonus: 27% Off

Mid-century modern houses are designed for California springs and summers. But the floor to ceiling single paned glass windows let the cold right in.

I borrowed a friend's Dyson Hot heater. Being a designer, I loved the design of it--you can't get more elegant than that. But--what I didn't like was the sound of it--like a tiny Pratt and Whitney Turbo Jet engine--loud--and to me not a "white noise" kind of sound, but actual noise. Even once I got used to the sound of it (and you do), it didn't put out a ton of heat, so it could be on for hours and the room was still cold.

I then got a Lasko Digital Ceramic Tower Heater to try.

You have to assemble the base (snap it together, two screws), then four screws to attach the heater to the base. It took about five minutes--but you do need a philips screw driver.

You also need two AAA batteries, something that the box mentions in small type, but if you get home without it, you won't be able to use the remote control. I used to think a remote control on a room heater was a silly thing, but once you have it, it becomes as vital as one for a television, because it lets you adjust the temperature at a distance.

The first thing you notice about this heater is how QUIET it is. Really just a whisper. And the sound it makes is a low tone that doesn't interfere with listening to music or the TV. Even on "Hi" mode, it's still much quieter than the Dyson.

You can set it to run continuously on "Lo" or "Hi" or set the thermostat to the temperature you want, and it will turn on and off automatically to keep it there. Because it's so quiet, you can leave it on at night when you sleep.

And, if you want it to shut off during the night to save power, it has an 8 hour timer that will automatically shut it off after the amount of time you specify. The Dyson had no timer.

The oscillation is wide and silent. While the unit is tall, it has a reason--as the entire length emits hot air, which warms the room faster.

As much as I like Dyson design, this heater costs 1/4 the price of a Dyson, makes 1/4 the sound, and seems to heat the room about 2 times as well. Do the math--this heater is an excellent value.

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The unit is quiet but not very effective. You have to be close to it to feel warmth. If you're more than five feet away the moving air actually feels cold. This heater doesn't even compare to the warmth generated by my Bionaire 3950 which is completely silent and radiates heat from both sides and top. I'll put this Lasko in my office.

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I received it in time. Set up was not too hard, but you do need both hands and some ingenuity to get the base together and screwed in. You need a screw driver also, a plus shaped one. Plugged it in and turned it on, I got that fresh Lasko smell which I remembered from my first Lasko heater about 4 years ago. It brought back some memories. Anyway, the smell was virtually gone by the next morning. The remote comes with a screen, which shows the settings, so you don't have to look at the heater to know what the settings are. The remote screen shuts off after a few seconds, and then the first button you press will bring the screen back on, but won't change the settings, only subsequent button presses will change the settings. So just remember, if the remote screen is off, the first button press only turns the screen on. One issue is that the remote has to be pointed almost exactly at the heater, or it wont work, this sort of makes the screen pointless, because if you're lying down, you wont be able to see the screen when pointing the remote at the heater. And if you're going to look at the heater, you might as well read the settings on the heater's screen. The unit looks quite nice, you can put it next to a book shelf or something, it wont stick out too much. It is not very noisy, but when it turns on, you definitely hear it. There isn't any tilt sensor as far as I am aware, I tried holding it almost horizontal, and it kept on working. The base is quite stable though. The wire is nice and thick, it is made of a matte, soft material. not like other wires. I like it really warm, so I just set it to max heat and let it run to see how warm the room would get, it got to about 83 then was fluctuating between 83 and 84. my other temperature device confirmed this was indeed the room temperature. prior to turning it on, the room was about 63. The room is 240 square feet. Can't fault the heater for this though (first of all 84 is plenty comfy for me), because hot air rises, all the hot air goes straight to the ceiling. If you have a ceiling fan, set that to a very low speed, it will mix up the air and it will get warmer down where the people are. I also noticed a not-too-loud rumbling sound on low heat mode, this is probably the fan. at the high setting, it is gone. perhaps it is not aligned, or is a bit loose. There is a timer, which I didn't test. But I suppose it does what it says. All in all, it's a lovely heater. I wouldn't give my Lasko back if they paid me for it. I think of these things as pets, you'll never find a perfect one. They all have unique personalities, and I love them all the same.

Pros:

good looking

nice warmth

automatic temperature mode shuts off and turns on automatically to maintain desired room temp

nice wire

remote with screen

remote batteries provided in the box

quite easy to set up

stable base

sides don't even get warm.

low power mode for power saving

cons:

remote must be pointed directly at it

intermittent fan noises on low power mode

no tilt sensor

Honest reviews on Lasko 5586 Digital Ceramic Tower Heater

Good value heater. I use it for our bedroom in winter in auto mode and does a good job of keeping room at temp we want. quiet and pretty easy but have to be careful you use a full circuit connection or you could blow your circuit.

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very quiet, and powerful, i love how it looks at my bed room, i recomend it ,i will buy another one for my living room